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 Post subject: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Fri 17. Jul 2020 23:34:11 
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Posts: 94
Location: Australia
I received at last the new item. It has 2 slots for inserting the ball links to the blades
Why are there two options? Which of them should I use for the 600 Gratt head?

Can this maybe fix my inability to get 6° ?

1) I clibrated again my DX9 controls
2) Zeroed the cyclic values in Step-7
3) Set as close to 90° mechanical
4) If my blades are NOT at Zero, does it indicate too long servo arms?

It will be a big job to replace the current servo wheels (which only have one hole for the ball link) with arms that have several options.

Here is my new swashplate. Based on what I see in the picture - they are using the inner slots for the ball links to the blades, is that the better option? Why?

Attachment:
600ccpm.jpg
600ccpm.jpg [ 21.21 KiB | Viewed 354 times ]

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 3:20:08 
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Posts: 157
If it is a DFC head, the DFC arms connect to the balls on that are on the extensions on that swashpate, not the ones that are directly on the sides.


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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 4:44:15 
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Posts: 94
Location: Australia
thestructured wrote:
If it is a DFC head, the DFC arms connect to the balls on that are on the extensions on that swashpate, not the ones that are directly on the sides.


Sorry, I am very unclear to what you are trying to tell me.
It is a clone of the Align DFC head from Gartt.

Please explain
Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 8:43:18 
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Posts: 157
Your servo arms should be as close to 90 degrees as possible when the diagnostic screen says 0 degrees for pitch, or when you click the "subtrim (tuning)" box in the servo screen of the software, which moves the servos to center/0 degrees automatically.

Your servo to swashplate linkages should be the length that the manual for your helicopter says they should be. As for the length of the servo arms, use the hole that the manual to your helicopter tells you to use.

Then using a swashplate leveler, trim the servos in the spirit software until the swashplate is perfectly level.

Then attach the rotorhead, connect the DFC linkages to the swashplate. If the blades are not 0 degrees, turn the plastic ball links on the DFC linkages out until the blades are 0 degrees.

If you have to turn the ball links out too much (not enough threads in the plastic links) then you should make your servo to swashplate linkages longer instead.

Once you have attained 0 degrees of pitch on the blades, matching 0 degrees in the spirit sotware, check the pitch amount at full positive and full negative pitch to see if they match. Often they do not.

If they do not, hit "servo travel correction" under the servo tab in the spirit software, and move all three sliders down or up in equal amounts, for whichever (positive or negative) to make full positive and negative collective equal.

Proceed to the 'limits' tab and set the amount of pitch you want to have, and then set the cyclic ring. Set this as high as you can without mechanical binding. Make sure you check cyclic ring with full positive collective, and full negative collective, to make sure nothing mechanical is binding in those positions, not only at 0 degrees.

Then, for setting of the 6 degrees geometry in the advanced tab, make sure your transmitter stick is at 0 degrees pitch first.

Please post photos of the setup if you are having any more problems, it would be easier to help if I could see.


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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 8:54:47 
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Posts: 96
inner holes give softer cyclic response , outer holes give sharper cyclic response
collective is not affected

If you can't get 6 degree setting you need to move your servo links towards the centre. If using the align metal arms the holes are too far out


Last edited by andy6409 on Sat 18. Jul 2020 8:59:06, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 8:56:45 
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Joined: Wed 17. Jun 2020 0:53:45
Posts: 94
Location: Australia
thestructured wrote:
Your servo arms should be as close to 90 degrees as possible when the diagnostic screen says 0 degrees for pitch, or when you click the "subtrim (tuning)" box in the servo screen of the software, which moves the servos to center/0 degrees automatically.

Your servo to swashplate linkages should be the length that the manual for your helicopter says they should be. As for the length of the servo arms, use the hole that the manual to your helicopter tells you to use.

Then using a swashplate leveler, trim the servos in the spirit software until the swashplate is perfectly level.

Then attach the rotorhead, connect the DFC linkages to the swashplate. If the blades are not 0 degrees, turn the plastic ball links on the DFC linkages out until the blades are 0 degrees.

If you have to turn the ball links out too much (not enough threads in the plastic links) then you should make your servo to swashplate linkages longer instead.

Once you have attained 0 degrees of pitch on the blades, matching 0 degrees in the spirit sotware, check the pitch amount at full positive and full negative pitch to see if they match. Often they do not.

If they do not, hit "servo travel correction" under the servo tab in the spirit software, and move all three sliders down or up in equal amounts, for whichever (positive or negative) to make full positive and negative collective equal.

Proceed to the 'limits' tab and set the amount of pitch you want to have, and then set the cyclic ring. Set this as high as you can without mechanical binding. Make sure you check cyclic ring with full positive collective, and full negative collective, to make sure nothing mechanical is binding in those positions, not only at 0 degrees.

Then, for setting of the 6 degrees geometry in the advanced tab, make sure your transmitter stick is at 0 degrees pitch first.

Please post photos of the setup if you are having any more problems, it would be easier to help if I could see.


Much appreciated getting back to me. I didn't take pictures this time, but please read the steps I finished just now, maybe you can spot something....

OK, I finished my "Experiment" with NEGATIVE outcome, again...

1) Reset the Spirit Servo Sub-trim to zero for all 3 cyclic servos
2) Re-calibrated the Tx center points
3) Replaced the original Align wheels of the 3 cyclic with arms and positioned the ball links lower by 2 points for all 3 servos - to shorten the servo arms (this will no doubt place more stress on the servos)
4) Reset all 3 mechanically to 90° as close as I could

5) Went through the wizard from the start
6) In Step 7, used the sub-trim to level the swashplate using the tool
7) Checked the Pitch box and adjusted the blade over the tail boom to 0°
8) Turned around the other blade over the boom, adjusted the blade rod to be zero as well

9) Moved to step-8.... not SIX degrees and maximum shift to 64 points...

One other detail, "My manual" is of the Align Trex 600 ESP, it doesn't know aboud DFC controls, nor about a DFC swashplate with two holes...

So, I am now in despration stage - I MUST be doing here something wrong which is not obvious from my description of my steps above. Please read my steps, see if you can figure out (maybe the order in which I am doing things), or what else can I do?

Cheers and thanks again

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 9:23:42 
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Posts: 157
It will be much easier to help if you can get a picture of how it is set up, so we can check if something is wrong.


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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 9:40:58 
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Joined: Mon 29. Apr 2013 16:06:44
Posts: 12442
Hello,

recalibrating TX is never needed, because it is done automatically each power up.

After changing swashplate you should re-do:
1) Subtrims
2) change 3 bottom push rod length to level the swashplate
3) change 2 upper push rod length (if adjustable) to reach 0°.
If two upper push rods are not adjustable such as with some DFC heads, you have to adjust 3 bottom push rods - equally make them longer or shorter, depending on what resulting angle of the blade is.
But still, in any case, Subtrim (Tuning) must give you perfectly perpendicular servo arms, levelled swashplate and 0° between main blades. If not, then also other steps will be likely wrong.
4) Once previous steps are done you can set Geometry 6° again.

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 10:02:02 
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Joined: Wed 17. Jun 2020 0:53:45
Posts: 94
Location: Australia
ZeXx86 wrote:
Hello,

recalibrating TX is never needed, because it is done automatically each power up.

After changing swashplate you should re-do:
1) Subtrims
2) change 3 bottom push rod length to level the swashplate
3) change 2 upper push rod length (if adjustable) to reach 0°.
If two upper push rods are not adjustable such as with some DFC heads, you have to adjust 3 bottom push rods - equally make them longer or shorter, depending on what resulting angle of the blade is.
But still, in any case, Subtrim (Tuning) must give you perfectly perpendicular servo arms, levelled swashplate and 0° between main blades. If not, then also other steps will be likely wrong.
4) Once previous steps are done you can set Geometry 6° again.


I am confused now - to get the swash Level, I thought I am doing it in the software, here it seems you say to do it by changing the length of the 3 bottom push rods?

I can only change the length of TWO - ail / pitch - the 3rd one - elevator is NOT adjustable and it is driven by the initial hardware setup of the 90°

Thanks

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 Post subject: Re: New DFC Swashplate
PostPosted: Sat 18. Jul 2020 10:18:55 
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Joined: Mon 29. Apr 2013 16:06:44
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Here you can find step by step guide how to make these steps perfectly precisely and correctly:
http://manual.spirit-system.com/index.p ... d_Geometry

Can you take a photo of your model? I have not seen swashplate with not adjustable push rod.
Please note I am talking about things like this (attachment).


Attachments:
Z-TRX8618.jpg
Z-TRX8618.jpg [ 18.25 KiB | Viewed 280 times ]

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